Melbourne – Canberra

17 December – 27  December

Friday:

I’m so comfortable and warm in my real bed that I struggle to sleep a bit.  No complaints though.  In the morning it’s an easy 2hr drive into Melbourne.  The scenery is still gorgeous and we stop off in Torquay to check out the surfers at Bells Beach.

We arrive in Melbourne in the early afternoon and it immediately feels like a proper big city. 

We’re staying in a little ‘apartment’ (basically a room with a kettle and a microwave) in St Kilda.  Everything looks ok and as an added bonus we have free, unlimited internet.  Hurrah!

We take a slow stroll through St Kilda, which kind of feels like London by the seaside.  There’s a lot of old buildings, nice little shops and pubs, grey skies and rain!

We have a few drinks, get lovely pizzas and manage (just barely) to avoid the temptations of the many cake shops.

Back at the apartment I notice some little blood-filled bugs in the bed, but as it’s late and there’s nothing we can do about it, I turn in and hope for the best.

Janet adds: Liking that Australians are very into their pumpkin/butternut.  You can get it on pizzas and in salads.  Very yummy.

Saturday:

Needless to say, I wake up bitten to heck.  I’m excited about exploring the city though and determined not to let it get me down.  Also, reception is mysteriously closed, so there’s no one to complain to even if I wanted to.

Amy, one of my Dad’s friends, has kindly offered to show us around the city.  We take the tram up to the National Gallery to meet her.  It’s an impressive building with an even more impressive selection of teas in the café. 

We take a walk into the city centre.  I’m really liking Melbourne, and the little laneways feel like Soho.  It’s a quick tram ride to Gertrude street where we stop for lunch.  Amy has to leave us then, but she’s been great company.  We decide to hang around the area for a while browsing the interesting shops on Smith and Brunswick streets.  Then it’s a quick hop back to the city centre for another look around.  We’re wanting a bit of a sit down, so we park ourselves on the circular tram for a round trip of the sights. 

It’s back to Gertrude st for a few drinks and some nachos, then a final stop off down the graffitied laneways to check out the Croft Institute.  

Janet adds: I’ve discovered my new favourite drink: the Charlie Chaplin.  Equal parts sloe gin, apricot brandy and lime juice, shaken and served in a martini glass.  Luckily it was too expensive to have more than the one, could’ve got messy.

Saturday later (or really the wee hours of Sunday):

It’s 3.30am and I’ve been absolutely hammered by bedbugs.  Even if I could sleep I don’t want to, as I don’t know what state I’ll wake up in.  I’ve also just made the mistake of looking up this place on tripadvisor only to discover that various people who’ve stayed here have contracted scabies.  Nice.  Now I’m too scared to touch anything.  I’m desperate for morning and determined to negotiate an early check-out.  That means we’ll have nowhere to stay tomorrow night but hey, details. 

Janet adds: do visit Melbourne, but whatever you do don’t stay at Redan St Apartments http://www.redanapartments.com.au/

Sunday:

Daylight finally comes and after eventually having to ring the emergency number just to get someone to come to reception, we manage to get checked out early.  I wasn’t taking no for an answer.  It’s another grey, rainy day.  We decide to have another look around St Kilda, which is really just an excuse to go for cake.  Tea and cake always do the soul good, and the SUGAR hit is helping too – I’m feeling much revived.

We’ve managed to get a good last minute deal at another hotel and head there to check in.  It’s proper (i.e. clean and with no bugs!).  Although we’ve still got a fair few sights to see, I can’t resist a long bath and then a lie on the bed watching crappy American teen films on telly.  At about 4 we finally drag ourselves out into the rain and head for Federation Square and a walk around the South bank.  We find a lovely little curry place then head back for an early night.

Monday:

There’s no way we’re leaving early today – we’re trying to max out our time in ‘luxury’.  On the way out of Melbourne we stop off at a big shopping centre.  We’re in need of groceries and some clothes and want to pick up some bits for xmas.  Once we’re shopped out, we drive down to Toora and check in for two nights.  We’ve decided to give up on camping for the time being and go for a cabin.  It’s probably a good thing.  Even in a cabin I’m sleeping in a tracksuit top inside my sleeping bag with a top sheet and a quilt – don’t think it’d be much fun in a tent.  Oh, and it’s still raining!

Tuesday:

It’s a bit brighter today as we go to explore Wilson’s Promontory national park.  It’s a gorgeous peninsula filled with wild beaches, granite boulders and mountains.  We stop off at Squeaky Beach, which does exactly what it says on the tin.

Then we climb up Mt Oberon for panoramic views. 

It’s a lovely day out.  My only disappointment is that I’d been expecting lots of wildlife and was hoping to spot a wombat, but apart from a roadkill victim didn’t see any.

Back at the campsite we take advantage of the lack if kids to have a go on the jumping pillow.  And yes, it is as fun as it looks.

Janet adds: gotta get us one of these, so much fun and really good exercise too.

Nick adds: Can’t believe that it’s taken 6 weeks for me to have a go on a jumping pillow.

Wednesday:

It’s chilly this morning, but the sun is finally out and there are no rainclouds in sight.  We’re driving through Gippsland.  There’s gentle farmland interspersed with eucalyptus forest, rivers, lakes and beaches.  With a cottage and a little boat I could easily spend weeks exploring.  In the early afternoon we arrive in Marlo where we’ve decided to spend the night.  We get checked into a cabin (oh, how easily I’ve got used to this cabin business) and then go for a lovely walk along the banks of the snowy river.

Thursday:

We leave Marlo and drive along to Cape Conran for a leisurely stroll down a somewhat extreme boardwalk.  Lets just say we would’ve been in a bit of trouble if the tides had been on the turn. 

Then we pass through some more gorgeous (but cloudly) countryside, stopping for lunch at Mallacoota.  Shortly afterwards we cross the border into New South Wales.  I know it’s only coincidence, but straight away the sun comes out.  I can’t help feeling well disposed towards NSW.  First stop is Eden, which I’m expecting to be a let down (with a name like that).  I’m ashamed to say though that I actually used the term jaw-dropping, and only because my jaw actually did drop.  This is the kind of countryside I could live in: mountains, forest, big lakes and gorgeous coastline.  All with the sun shining.

It’s mid-afternoon by the time we arrive in Narooma.  We’re spending xmas here in a little self-contained apartment and it’s perfect.  The town is lovely and the apartment has everything we need.  There’s even a free laundry (I’ve been paranoid that we’ve picked up some Melbourne bedbugs, so EVERYTHING is getting washed).  With the car unpacked, some washing on and the fridge full we can relax and try to get into the Christmas spirit.

Friday:

Something has made our bedbug bites come up red and swollen all over again.  And I’ve managed to pick up my customary Christmas cold, which I can’t quit figure out.  Anyhow, with my coughing, sniffling and red, blotchy skin, it’s no surprise that people are giving me a wide berth. 

It’s not cold today, but overcast.  We set out to explore the town.  There’s water everywhere: a big lake opening out to the sea.  The water is crystal clear as well, and we take a slow stroll along the boardwalk watching some little red jellyfish. 

After lunch it’s time for a Christmas tradition: watching the Muppets Christmas Carol.  Then it’s time for some of my fine Barossa valley wine on the balcony before tucking into Nick’s homemade lasagne.

Saturday:

Happy Christmas everyone!  We start the day with a skype to my dad, then it’s presents and a lazy breakfast.  It’s warm and sunny, so we take a slow stroll down to the swimming beach.  The water is cold but lovely and we have a nice swim out. 

After we’ve dried off in the sun, we walk back along the lake.  It’s the first decent sun we’ve seen in about 3 weeks and we both come back with rosy cheeks and pink arms, having got out of the habit of dousing ourselves in factor 30+ everyday. 

I sit back to watch Elf while Nick gets cracking on our roast dinner.  We’d thought about bbqing for Christmas, but we bbq all the time lately.  It’s a luxury though to have our own kitchen.  Much food and wine later, its time to skype more family and friends.

Sunday:

I’m feeling almost human again today, with both bites and cold finally fading.  It’s another lazy morning for us finishing up washing and trying to sort our suitcases out a bit.  As the sun is out, we’re planning to get to the beach again.  But of course, as soon as all the chores are done and we’re ready to play, the clouds come in and it starts to rain.

Monday:

We’d hoped to spend today exploring the coast up to Sydney, but with everyone heading off on their beach holidays after xmas, we’re struggling to find a room or a patch of grass to pitch our tent.  We decide to do the opposite and head inland to Canberra.  Of course I'm out to make new friends along the way...

We arrive shortly after lunchtime and set out on foot to see the sights.  There’s so much green space that it feels more like a park with a few buildings in it than a city with a lot of parks.  I really want to like Canberra, but it’s so spread out that there’s no real sense of place. 

We spend the evening resting our aching legs and munching on xmas leftovers. 

Janet adds: liking the black swans with their frilly feathers.

Adelaide – Lorne

10 December – 16 December

Friday:

After our time in the ‘outback’ it’s weird to be in quite a built up area again.  And weird to not be roasting hot.  Unfortunately things have swung a bit too far the other way.  We arrive in a cold, wet and windy Adelaide, which is brilliant, as we’ve picked a campsite with direct beach access. Hmmm.  We have a quick picnic lunch in Henley, then set up camp and head to the shops to pick up some food.  For the first time in Australia we’re actually cold and have to go digging in the suitcase for jeans and warm tops.

It’s a little bit of a wake-up call.  Camping has been brilliant all up the west coast and down the middle, but when it’s cold and raining it’s not so much fun.  We’re a little worried about xmas (as we’d planned to camp) and not quite sure how to tackle the cooler climes of New Zealand.

Janet adds: McCain’s sweet potato fries rule.

Saturday:

We’re feeling a bit unsettled after a cold night in the tent.   Nevertheless, after a warm breakfast and a cup of tea we’re ready to head out.  Adelaide CBD is surrounded in green, leafy parkland and sports grounds.  The Torrens river runs through it, with well-manicured lawns and cycle-paths along the banks. 

It’s all very pretty and civilized.  We have a wander through the main shopping and historic district and stop for lunch. 

The suburb of North Adelaide is quaint and historic, filled with boutique shops and lovely old houses with wrought iron verandas.

In the afternoon (after stopping off to buy warm pyjamas) we take a lovely stroll along the beach to Glenelg.  

Well, it would’ve been lovely if a cold wind hadn’t been howling.  Glenelg itself is disappointing too – seaside kitsch mixed with docklands snobbery.  We’d planned to stay out for food and drinks, but as nothing really takes our fancy, we decide to head back.  Tired and cold, we then spend the next half hour trying to find an open supermarket so we can eat.

Janet adds:  Adelaide is not quite doing it for me at the moment.  This could possibly be because we’ve spent a large proportion of our time here parked outside McDonalds using their free wifi.  The lengths we’ll go to for decent internet these days… We’d expected internet in Oz to be freely available, but it’s expensive with rigid download limits that prevent you from doing most of the things you need to do.

Sunday:

After another stolen wifi session this morning (thankfully though we get some non-camping accommodation sorted for xmas), we decide we’d best head out and have some fun.  It’s a bit warmer today, and the sun even makes the odd appearance.  Nick is in a generous mood and ends up chauffeuring me around the Barossa valley wineries.  The scenery is gorgeous: rolling hills and scenic gorges interspersed with vineyards. 

I have a great time, better with each stop off.  The first couple of wineries I found a bit intimidating, but as the tastings progressed my confidence grew (funny that).  We pass a couple of the big wineries and stick our heads in to Jacob’s Creek, but find the small, family wineries much more interesting.  I treat myself to a couple (okay, 3) bottles of wine.  My excuse is that I’ll save them for a xmas treat.  From the Chain of Ponds winery I get a lovely rose and a shiraz (even Nick likes it, and he doesn’t drink wine).  My favourite though is Lou Miranda Estate, where we’re treated to some free churros (mmmm) and I get an unusual bottle of sparkling Shiraz. 

We have another quick explore of lovely Henley on the way back.

Janet adds: it’s been an emotional day today.  I found my first ever grey hair, and said goodbye to some old friends.

Monday:

We leave Adelaide today for a slow drive across the Fleurieu peninsula.  We stop for lunch at gorgeous, long Carrickalinga beach.  The temperature is hovering about 20 degrees, so not quite warm enough for a swim, but we have a lovely stroll out. 

We stop for the night at Port Elliot, a beautiful seaside town.  The temperature hasn’t risen much, but after a long day looking at gorgeous beaches, I decide it’s time for a swim in Horseshoe Bay, dragging a reluctant Nick with me

We’ve managed to pick a campsite with no camp kitchen, but on our way to the supermarket to find some dinner, we pass a nice looking pub with some specials on, and a little pizzeria…  Needless to say, the self-catering plans went a little out the window.

Tuesday:

In the morning we drive on to Goolwa, which has it’s own great beach, and then head to the Murray River.  Much to my excitement, we have to take a little car ferry across.

The sun is finally out today and I’m DYING to enjoy some of the beaches we’re passing.  We arrive in Robe at about 2.30 and I’m determined to have an afternoon on the beach.  Nick is equally determined to stop me – insisting that we do all sorts of unnecessary things like putting up the tent first.

In the end though I get my little swim.  Once again, we have gorgeous sea views from out campsite.

It’s a fairly warm evening, but as we turn in, a storm is brewing over the sea.  The lightning displays are brilliant, but the tent flapping about in the wind is less so.  Sleep is patchy to say the least, though Nick says he saw the best shooting star ever.

Wednesday:

We’re both a little tired after a bad night’s sleep, so it’s a slow start.  We drive first to Beachport, which was apparently named after somebody called Beach and is nothing to do with the big beach it has.  It has beautiful stone buildings shadowed by giant fir trees.  Oh, and there’s a super long jetty (750m).

Next stop is Mt Gambier with the striking sapphire blue volcanic lake.

Shortly after leaving Mr Gambier we cross into Victoria and lose another half hour – putting us now 11 hours ahead of UK time.  We take a drive down to wild Cape Bridgewater

then decide to call it a day in Portland Bay.  I find a campsite with (gulp) free internet.  Unfortunately I’m blinded by this and don’t notice that a) there’s no kitchen and b) there are sandflies EVERYWHERE.  I have a very rational fear of sandflies after my nasty Port Hedland 140+bites incident.  

The cold weather and sandflies lead us to spend most of the evening in the car.  On the plus side, our free internet lets us Skype Andrew, whose birthday it is.  He asks how many nights we’ve slept in the car.  We say none (apart from the brief spell in Turkey Creek when I made us hide from the coming storm in the car).  So I’m blaming him when we wake up at 3.30 in the morning: it’s freezing and our mattress has decided to deflate so we’re both lying on the ground.  I jump in the car, meaning to pump up the mattress again, but Nick decides he’s had enough and it’s a night in the car for us. 

Thursday:

We wake up tired and there are still sandflies everywhere.  We can’t leave Portland Bay quickly enough, but in our slow state it’s still after 10 by the time we get on the road.  We’re taking on the Great Ocean Road today. 

The scenery is gorgeous, and we take in all the favourites, like the 12 apostles.

My favourite bit is from Apollo Bay to Lorne – where it’s all forests, rugged mountains and beautiful coastlines.  There are eucalyptus trees everywhere and I’m desperately looking out for my first koala.  Finally I see a fluffy shape up in the branches – though my squeals of excitement alarm Nick and don’t help in negotiating the twists and turns of the road.  Finally though we see this guy:

Shortly afterwards we arrive in Lorne and treat ourselves to a cabin.  We’re both fed up with being cold and in desperate need of sleep.  The locals are interesting

and I’m munching on some lovely local cherries.

Janet adds: Nick has just reminded me that I have about 2 and a half weeks to get my bikini bod in shape before hitting the busy east coast L Definitely not long enough to undo all the damage done from sitting in a car eating crisps most of the day…

Nick adds: We nearly experienced our second crash of the trip due to Janet’s over excitement when seeing a koala for the first time.

Darwin – Port Augusta

2 December – 9 December

Thursday:

It rains all night, but luckily the sun is out first thing to dry our tent off.  We leave Darwin today and head into Kakadu national park.  We’re just far enough into the wet season for the plants to start growing, with wetlands forming at the side of the road. 

We go to Ubirr to see some rock art and to climb a lookout, then take a 2.5km walk through some sandstone formations. 

There are a lot of croc warning signs around and most walks anywhere near a body of water are closed for the season – we’re more than happy to oblige.  I’m not too keen on seeing a saltie in the wild.

In the late afternoon we check into a campsite and cool down with a swim.  Aah.  The long warm evenings are perfect for sitting out in with a couple of beers, especially when the stars are as good as this.  There’s a small owl in the tree above me, and what looks like a dingo slinking around.

Friday:

We stop by a few more rock art sites this morning.  Our favourite is this guy with the big wanger, who apparently hits women with a yam before eating them (?!):

We then take a steep climb for some more beautiful views before heading out of the park.  I expected the Northern Territory to be this vast, but not this lush and green.

Back on the Stuart highway we head for Katherine again, knowing we’ll find a good campsite there.

Janet adds: a kangeroo jumped out in front of us today, but luckily he was pretty quick and bounced out of the way again.

Saturday:

We’re going south, south, south, all the way to Adelaide via Uluru (Ayers rock).  Today is going to be a big driving day, so after a swim to wake us up we get going.  Now that we’re heading down the middle, I’d expected the highway to open up into vast, nothing to see from horizon to horizon desert, but it’s still pretty green.  The roads straighten out and there’s hardly any traffic.  The higher speed limit helps to eat up the miles as well.  Of course not long after I’d taken over driving, the storm clouds moved in and it started lashing it down.  I plough on with gritted teeth, but we’re through within a few minutes. 

We’d planned to stop in Tennant’s Creek, but when we get there it’s hot, the campsite looks like a dustbowl and when trying to buy petrol our cards are declined.  Taking that as a sign, we head a bit further.

We pass a place called the Devil’s marbles.  I think the picture kind of explains it:

We stop for the night at Wycliffe Wells – Australia’s UFO capital supposedly.  It’s decorated according to theme, with a few other random bits thrown in (statues of Elvis and the Hulk).  There are chickens roaming about, a pen of emus and donkeys and cages of birds and rabbits.  It’s all a bit random, but makes things interesting. 

But camping isn’t all sunsets and starry skies and I’m having a bad night tonight.  While trying to get the stove lit, a rogue match head attaches itself to my chest (still burning).  Also, someone has left the light on in the ladies so the bugs in there have reached plague proportions.

Janet adds: note to self – when driving with bad visibility it’s best to take your sunglasses off.

Sunday:

Despite all the horror stories about venomous beasts in Australia, we’ve not spotted anything particularly scary looking (apart from the reef shark).  Today we get our first real look at a snake – being carried off the road by 3 big blackbirds. 

We weren’t expecting much from Alice Springs, but are pleasantly surprised.  It’s a pretty, well-maintained town with a beautiful mountain backdrop.

It has all the amenities you could need, apart from some weird alcohol restrictions which mean you can only buy beer from your car round the back of a hotel (no, this was not some dodgy arrangement, just a ‘drive-through’ bottle store, you can’t get served on foot!).

In the late afternoon it starts to rain and for the first time in weeks I’m cold enough to have a warm shower.  It’s quite lovely.  It stays cool all night and I get the best night’s sleep I’ve had in ages.

Janet adds: we’re not feeling very xmas-sy yet, but kinda liking xmas Australian style…

Monday:

After picking up some supplies in Alice we head for Ayers rock.  Unfortunately the cool weather doesn’t follow us and we’re soon up to 41 degrees again.  The campsite isn’t great – expensive, because it’s your only option, but with no shade or anything to make it a particularly pleasant place to pass some time.  The flies here are also the most persistent we’ve encountered, which is saying something.  By the time the tent is up we’re both a bit grumpy.

We head for the rock, which isn’t disappointing.  It’s beautiful and weird and out of place. 

We quite wrongly decide that it would be a good idea to do the base walk round the rock.   It’s still 40 odd degrees, the walk is nigh on 11km on and although the rock is pretty awesome, the walk doesn’t really add anything.  When we finally make it back to the car, we’re thoroughly fed up.    The sunset helps to calm us down though.

Tuesday:

We’re up early today to watch the sunrise over Ayers rock.  Then we head straight to KT – a tumble of Ayers rock type boulders - to do the Valley of the Winds walk before it gets too hot.  It’s well worth the effort.

We’re back at camp by 10am and since there’s nothing else we want to do (and nowhere to escape the heat) we decide to pack up and hit the road again.  We cross over into South Australia (losing another hour – putting us 10.5 ahead of UK time) and find a convenient roadhouse (Marla) to spend the night.  Just as we’re checking in a wild storm comes over.  We decide to treat ourselves to a night in a room.  After 26 straight days of camping I think we deserve it.  We spend the evening soaking in the bliss of tv, a real bed, a fridge, ensuite bathroom and air-conditioning.

Janet adds: I hope this doesn’t ruin camping for me now.

Wednesday:

It’s our last big driving day today as we head down to Port Augusta.  We’re onto our 7^th straight day of driving big distances.   The scenery finally turns into the horizon to horizon nothingness we’d been expecting. 

Despite the good rest we’re both struggling with numb bums and wandering minds.  Coober Peddy is the only town we pass through.  It’s based on opal mining and is a weird place – a proper working town that’s trying very hard to turn mining and all things underground into tourist attractions.  Apparently it regularly gets up to 50 degrees here and loads of people live underground.  While we’re there, it stays pleasantly in the mid-twenties.   It’s a full 15 degrees cooler than yesterday and the first day in weeks that we’ve not seen the thirties.  No complaints from either of us.

It’s after 6 when we finally arrive in Port Augusta with a huge sigh of relief.  We set up camp and as the evening sets in we actually have to change into tops and trousers.  Weird.  We even have to turn the fan off in the tent. 

Janet adds: hurrah for making it all the way down the middle and for the cooler temperatures.

Thursday:

Today is for relaxing and catching up with ourselves (and the washing!).  We laze about the campsite then take a wander into town.  Port Augusta is pretty, built around the water with the Flinders mountain range surrounding it.  We pick up some groceries, watch a film and just enjoy not being in the car.