Melbourne – Canberra

17 December – 27  December

Friday:

I’m so comfortable and warm in my real bed that I struggle to sleep a bit.  No complaints though.  In the morning it’s an easy 2hr drive into Melbourne.  The scenery is still gorgeous and we stop off in Torquay to check out the surfers at Bells Beach.

We arrive in Melbourne in the early afternoon and it immediately feels like a proper big city. 

We’re staying in a little ‘apartment’ (basically a room with a kettle and a microwave) in St Kilda.  Everything looks ok and as an added bonus we have free, unlimited internet.  Hurrah!

We take a slow stroll through St Kilda, which kind of feels like London by the seaside.  There’s a lot of old buildings, nice little shops and pubs, grey skies and rain!

We have a few drinks, get lovely pizzas and manage (just barely) to avoid the temptations of the many cake shops.

Back at the apartment I notice some little blood-filled bugs in the bed, but as it’s late and there’s nothing we can do about it, I turn in and hope for the best.

Janet adds: Liking that Australians are very into their pumpkin/butternut.  You can get it on pizzas and in salads.  Very yummy.

Saturday:

Needless to say, I wake up bitten to heck.  I’m excited about exploring the city though and determined not to let it get me down.  Also, reception is mysteriously closed, so there’s no one to complain to even if I wanted to.

Amy, one of my Dad’s friends, has kindly offered to show us around the city.  We take the tram up to the National Gallery to meet her.  It’s an impressive building with an even more impressive selection of teas in the café. 

We take a walk into the city centre.  I’m really liking Melbourne, and the little laneways feel like Soho.  It’s a quick tram ride to Gertrude street where we stop for lunch.  Amy has to leave us then, but she’s been great company.  We decide to hang around the area for a while browsing the interesting shops on Smith and Brunswick streets.  Then it’s a quick hop back to the city centre for another look around.  We’re wanting a bit of a sit down, so we park ourselves on the circular tram for a round trip of the sights. 

It’s back to Gertrude st for a few drinks and some nachos, then a final stop off down the graffitied laneways to check out the Croft Institute.  

Janet adds: I’ve discovered my new favourite drink: the Charlie Chaplin.  Equal parts sloe gin, apricot brandy and lime juice, shaken and served in a martini glass.  Luckily it was too expensive to have more than the one, could’ve got messy.

Saturday later (or really the wee hours of Sunday):

It’s 3.30am and I’ve been absolutely hammered by bedbugs.  Even if I could sleep I don’t want to, as I don’t know what state I’ll wake up in.  I’ve also just made the mistake of looking up this place on tripadvisor only to discover that various people who’ve stayed here have contracted scabies.  Nice.  Now I’m too scared to touch anything.  I’m desperate for morning and determined to negotiate an early check-out.  That means we’ll have nowhere to stay tomorrow night but hey, details. 

Janet adds: do visit Melbourne, but whatever you do don’t stay at Redan St Apartments http://www.redanapartments.com.au/

Sunday:

Daylight finally comes and after eventually having to ring the emergency number just to get someone to come to reception, we manage to get checked out early.  I wasn’t taking no for an answer.  It’s another grey, rainy day.  We decide to have another look around St Kilda, which is really just an excuse to go for cake.  Tea and cake always do the soul good, and the SUGAR hit is helping too – I’m feeling much revived.

We’ve managed to get a good last minute deal at another hotel and head there to check in.  It’s proper (i.e. clean and with no bugs!).  Although we’ve still got a fair few sights to see, I can’t resist a long bath and then a lie on the bed watching crappy American teen films on telly.  At about 4 we finally drag ourselves out into the rain and head for Federation Square and a walk around the South bank.  We find a lovely little curry place then head back for an early night.

Monday:

There’s no way we’re leaving early today – we’re trying to max out our time in ‘luxury’.  On the way out of Melbourne we stop off at a big shopping centre.  We’re in need of groceries and some clothes and want to pick up some bits for xmas.  Once we’re shopped out, we drive down to Toora and check in for two nights.  We’ve decided to give up on camping for the time being and go for a cabin.  It’s probably a good thing.  Even in a cabin I’m sleeping in a tracksuit top inside my sleeping bag with a top sheet and a quilt – don’t think it’d be much fun in a tent.  Oh, and it’s still raining!

Tuesday:

It’s a bit brighter today as we go to explore Wilson’s Promontory national park.  It’s a gorgeous peninsula filled with wild beaches, granite boulders and mountains.  We stop off at Squeaky Beach, which does exactly what it says on the tin.

Then we climb up Mt Oberon for panoramic views. 

It’s a lovely day out.  My only disappointment is that I’d been expecting lots of wildlife and was hoping to spot a wombat, but apart from a roadkill victim didn’t see any.

Back at the campsite we take advantage of the lack if kids to have a go on the jumping pillow.  And yes, it is as fun as it looks.

Janet adds: gotta get us one of these, so much fun and really good exercise too.

Nick adds: Can’t believe that it’s taken 6 weeks for me to have a go on a jumping pillow.

Wednesday:

It’s chilly this morning, but the sun is finally out and there are no rainclouds in sight.  We’re driving through Gippsland.  There’s gentle farmland interspersed with eucalyptus forest, rivers, lakes and beaches.  With a cottage and a little boat I could easily spend weeks exploring.  In the early afternoon we arrive in Marlo where we’ve decided to spend the night.  We get checked into a cabin (oh, how easily I’ve got used to this cabin business) and then go for a lovely walk along the banks of the snowy river.

Thursday:

We leave Marlo and drive along to Cape Conran for a leisurely stroll down a somewhat extreme boardwalk.  Lets just say we would’ve been in a bit of trouble if the tides had been on the turn. 

Then we pass through some more gorgeous (but cloudly) countryside, stopping for lunch at Mallacoota.  Shortly afterwards we cross the border into New South Wales.  I know it’s only coincidence, but straight away the sun comes out.  I can’t help feeling well disposed towards NSW.  First stop is Eden, which I’m expecting to be a let down (with a name like that).  I’m ashamed to say though that I actually used the term jaw-dropping, and only because my jaw actually did drop.  This is the kind of countryside I could live in: mountains, forest, big lakes and gorgeous coastline.  All with the sun shining.

It’s mid-afternoon by the time we arrive in Narooma.  We’re spending xmas here in a little self-contained apartment and it’s perfect.  The town is lovely and the apartment has everything we need.  There’s even a free laundry (I’ve been paranoid that we’ve picked up some Melbourne bedbugs, so EVERYTHING is getting washed).  With the car unpacked, some washing on and the fridge full we can relax and try to get into the Christmas spirit.

Friday:

Something has made our bedbug bites come up red and swollen all over again.  And I’ve managed to pick up my customary Christmas cold, which I can’t quit figure out.  Anyhow, with my coughing, sniffling and red, blotchy skin, it’s no surprise that people are giving me a wide berth. 

It’s not cold today, but overcast.  We set out to explore the town.  There’s water everywhere: a big lake opening out to the sea.  The water is crystal clear as well, and we take a slow stroll along the boardwalk watching some little red jellyfish. 

After lunch it’s time for a Christmas tradition: watching the Muppets Christmas Carol.  Then it’s time for some of my fine Barossa valley wine on the balcony before tucking into Nick’s homemade lasagne.

Saturday:

Happy Christmas everyone!  We start the day with a skype to my dad, then it’s presents and a lazy breakfast.  It’s warm and sunny, so we take a slow stroll down to the swimming beach.  The water is cold but lovely and we have a nice swim out. 

After we’ve dried off in the sun, we walk back along the lake.  It’s the first decent sun we’ve seen in about 3 weeks and we both come back with rosy cheeks and pink arms, having got out of the habit of dousing ourselves in factor 30+ everyday. 

I sit back to watch Elf while Nick gets cracking on our roast dinner.  We’d thought about bbqing for Christmas, but we bbq all the time lately.  It’s a luxury though to have our own kitchen.  Much food and wine later, its time to skype more family and friends.

Sunday:

I’m feeling almost human again today, with both bites and cold finally fading.  It’s another lazy morning for us finishing up washing and trying to sort our suitcases out a bit.  As the sun is out, we’re planning to get to the beach again.  But of course, as soon as all the chores are done and we’re ready to play, the clouds come in and it starts to rain.

Monday:

We’d hoped to spend today exploring the coast up to Sydney, but with everyone heading off on their beach holidays after xmas, we’re struggling to find a room or a patch of grass to pitch our tent.  We decide to do the opposite and head inland to Canberra.  Of course I'm out to make new friends along the way...

We arrive shortly after lunchtime and set out on foot to see the sights.  There’s so much green space that it feels more like a park with a few buildings in it than a city with a lot of parks.  I really want to like Canberra, but it’s so spread out that there’s no real sense of place. 

We spend the evening resting our aching legs and munching on xmas leftovers. 

Janet adds: liking the black swans with their frilly feathers.