Taupo to Napier

11 – 16 March

Friday:

It’s another bright and sunny day today.  As predicted, we’re in a bit of pain this morning.  We can at least still walk though, so that’s something.  We’re leaving New Plymouth this morning for the scenic drive (is there any other kind in New Zealand?) to Taupo. 

For the first couple of hours we’re following the coast, then we cut inland through steep hills and sharp valleys covered in thick forest.  It’s early afternoon when we arrive in Taupo and take in the views of the lake – it’s huge, with views of distant volcanoes on the far side. 

We get ourselves settled into our cabin and take care of a few practicalities (washing, groceries), then take a little scenic drive out.  We’re still knackered after yesterday though and decide a quiet afternoon at the campground might do us some good and there are plenty of ducks to keep me occupied.

Janet adds: I’ve noticed a strong South African contingent in New Zealand.  Greymouth had Afrikaans church services, Blenheim had over 150 South African families, gem squashes are fairly common in the shops and the supermarket in Taupo has a whole South African section where you can buy simba chips and other delicacies. 

Saturday:

We spend a lovely morning sight-seeing today, starting with the angry Huka Falls.  

We drive further up the Waikato river past the hydro-electric dam wall to check out the rapids.  Our next stop is a drive round the geo-thermal power plant.  It’s not terribly scenic, but it is interesting and produces 5% of New Zealand’s electricity, which is not bad going. 

The final stop of the morning is a honey shop.  You can see the bees busily making honey in the hives and sample various honey products.  It’s my first ever honey tasting session and it’s fascinating (or it was for me – Nick was bored stiff by this stage) how different the honeys taste.  I find a delicious honeysuckle honey and then (I’m ashamed to say) treat myself to a honey and fig ice-cream.  Honeyed out, we head back to our cabin for a spot of lunch/something to soak up the sugar.

Did I mention that it’s hot and sunny today?  I’m starting to take the warm weather for granted.  In the afternoon we take a short drive to one of the lake beaches. 

We’d been warned that the water would be cold, but by New Zealand standards it’s pleasant and an excellent spot for a swim.

 

Janet adds: I’m finding the north island decidedly liveable.

Sunday:

We start the morning with a stroll through the town itself and a wander along the banks of the lake.  Yes, it’s still warm and sunny.  Today we’re heading for the distant volcanoes on the far side of the lake.  It can’t help but be a scenic drive, hugging the shores of the lake almost all the way round.  We find an excellent spot for our picnic lunch. 

Tomorrow we’re scheduled to do the Tongariro Crossing: a 19.4km trek around two volcanoes.  It’s meant to be the best day walk in New Zealand and we’ve been planning it for weeks.  It’s a one-way walk, which means we’ve got to arrange a shuttle to drop us off at one end and pick us up at the other.  We’ve chosen a place where we can get a basic room and an early morning drop-off.  When we arrive we’re randomly upgraded and get a room with kitchen and bathroom.  Ah, the luxury.

But before our walk tomorrow we decide to warm up with a gentle 6km hike to a waterfall.

We spend the rest of the afternoon getting everything ready.  By the time the sun is setting our bags are packed and we’re ready for an early night.

Monday:

We’re up at 5am in order to catch the 6am shuttle.   Apart from being the BEST walk in New Zealand, this is also one of the busiest and the only way to beat the crowds is to leave early.  Also, this means we’ll have plenty of time to take in any side-trips.  If anyone is interested, check out what the walk is meant to look like here:  http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz As you’ll see, I don’t think our pics quite captured it.

It’s still dark when we’re dropped off – the sun won’t be up for another hour or so.  There’s a thick layer of cloud too, which isn’t a good sign.  We get cracking, telling ourselves the cloud will burn off once the sun is up.

It’s somewhat eerie walking through the tumble of volcanic rocks in the early morning gloom. 

We briefly side-track to see soda springs, though I think we smell it more than see it. 

Soon we’re climbing.  The sun is up now, but visibility isn’t improving.  The higher we get the thicker the cloud.  It’s cold too, and windy.  We get up to the saddle where we’d hoped we’d be able to summit Mt Ngauruhoe (aka Mt Doom of Lord of the Rings fame), but seeing as how we can’t even see the volcano it doesn’t seem wise (or worthwhile) trying to climb it. 

We press on.  If anything the weather is getting worse.  We’re now wearing all the layers we’d brought with us and I’m even wearing a spare pair of socks as gloves. 

We reach the highest point of the track – a narrow-ish strip between two steep craters.  According to the map anyway.  As far as we can see the world just drops away on either side.  The visibility improves slightly as we start to drop down and finally clears enough for us to grab a photo of one of the emerald lakes. 

It’s still early, so we think about hanging around to see if the weather picks up, but it doesn’t show any signs of improving so we decide to push on. 

The last 6km or so are a fairly steady wind downhill.  We do eventually pop out of the cloud and get some gorgeous views over to lake Taupo.  We pass some steaming vents and the smell of sulphur is thick in the air. 

The final stretch is through a pretty wooded area with a burbling brook running alongside us. 

Finally, with aching feet and tired legs, we’re back at the car park for our pick up.  It’s only 12.30, but it feels like we’ve been all day.  We head back to the cabin for a warming cup of soup and then collapse.  We’re somewhat relieved to see that the weather doesn’t get any better and even starts to rain.

Janet adds:  It was hard going today, but nothing compared to Mt Taranaki. Disappointed the weather didn’t play along, especially after the long stretch of sunny days, but that’s the way it goes.

Tuesday:

We can tell we had a bit of exercise yesterday, but on the whole we’re feeling pretty good.  The weather seems a bit better than yesterday, but the mountains are still in cloud so we can’t be tempted into giving it another go.  We’re going to Napier today.

First we’ve got to backtrack up to Taupo, but it’s the kind of trip you don’t mind doing again, then we head east.  Again it’s a beautiful drive through mountains and forest before dropping into wine country just as the sea comes into view.  The further east we get the sunnier it gets.  We arrive in Napier at lunchtime to a blazing hot afternoon. 

We buy a picnic lunch and take it to the beach.  It’s a black pebble beach, but pretty nonetheless and backed by lawns and flower garden. 

After lunch we take a stroll along the waterfront and get an ice cream (it’d be rude not too).

We check into our campsite where we get one of the plushest cabins yet.  It’s still warm enough to enjoy a swim in the pool (after maybe just a little jump on the jumping pillow AND the trampoline).

Janet adds: spotted Ouma rusks in the supermarket today.  Another reason to move to New Zealand?

Wednesday:

It’s gloriously hot and sunny again.  We take a walk into town.  You can’t help but like Napier, with it’s wide, palm tree lined streets and gorgeous buildings. 

Napier was pretty much wiped out by an earthquake in 1931 and the city was rebuilt in the art deco style. 

After a wander through town we walk over the hill to the docks.  Some of the old warehouses have been converted into bars and restaurants, so we decide to stop here for some lunch.  

These are working docks and we watch the fishing boats unloading their catch while we eat.  Neither of us eats fish, but it’s fun to watch anyway. 

A pint and a pizza later we start the long walk back, taking a welcome shady detour through the botanic gardens.  We’re back in time for another swim (and another bounce!).