9 April
Saturday:
Today we get to go to Pentecost Island to see the land diving (naghol). Every year on Saturdays between April and June the men of south Pentecost Island jump from wooden towers with vines tied to their legs (like a primitive form of bungee jumping and where the idea of bungee jumping came from) in a ritual believed to ensure a good harvest of yams.
It’s the main reason we wanted to come to Vanuatu and we’re so excited. We’re both a bit nervous as well – the day involves being flown about in a tiny aeroplane. We’re not sure if we’re getting the 6 seater or the 10 seater, but when the bus arrives to pick us up at 7.45 with 3 other passengers in it that kinda answers our question.
It’s raining and there are some nasty looking clouds about, so we reckon we’re in for a bumpy ride. As with all things in Vanuatu, it’s a bit of a relaxed affair. There’s no check-in process to speak of at the airport. We get weighed (yes, the plane is that small that your weight determines which seat you get!), pay a small departure tax and then wander out to our plane.
It’s tiny, but our pilot Alex looks perfectly competent. We dump our bags in the back and hop in. The safety briefing consists of being handed a life-jacket that we have to wear strapped around our waists (just in case) and being shown how to lock/unlock the door.
And then we’re off. I’m desperately trying to be nervous, but there’s so much to see that I’m soon distracted. Port Vila is on the island Efate. There’s one road that runs along the coast but in the middle there’s nothing but bush. It’s beautifully green, rugged and overgrown. Then we’re over the island and heading across the sea. There are islands dotted about everywhere – all with lush interiors, gorgeous long beaches and surrounded by coral. Vanuatu is made up of over 80 islands, about 65 of which are inhabited.
Alex flies us right past a volcano. There’s still a lot of cloud about but we get some good views.
Almost before we know it we’re landing on Pentecost Island. Alex has somehow managed to avoid the worst of the weather and the flight has been wonderfully smooth. A tarred runway and one small building make up the airport. There are a handful of locals hanging out to watch the action.
We get introduced to our guide. When we ask where the toilets are we’re led off down a muddy track to a little out building. The toilets are perfectly clean and there’s a bucket and tap to flush them – you’ve got to have your own paper though.
Back at the airport we’re officially welcomed with garlands and then led off through the bush to the jump site. Along the way we pass the women and girls preparing.
The tower has been build on the side of a hill that has been especially cleared off. There are 7 platforms for jumping, getting progressively higher. The vines are all prepared, the men and boys waiting around nervously. Well, some of them are – others are just having fun.
I’d expected a touristy display, but everything is very low key – there are 12 tourists here in total and a handful of locals watching from a clearing in the forest below. Finally we’re ready to go: the ground has been softened underneath the platform and the women and girls arrive dressed in grass skirts with flowers in their hair.
They all start dancing and singing: psyching up the man who’s the first to jump. The jumps start off fairly low, but it’s still hair-raising. The man gets into position and the vines are tied to his ankles. He raises his hands to the people
and then jumps, swinging out before landing on the soft ground below.
He’s helped up, the vines cut from his feet and there’s a palpable sense of relief in the air.
A young boy steps up for the next jump. He’s clearly nervous throughout the preparations. The crowd do their best to buoy him up, but in the end he can’t face it and has to climb back down. Immediately another boy is up in his place, eager to prove himself. But then he gets to the end of the platform and can’t face it either. This jump isn’t happening.
Another young boy steps up for the third jump. He’s a cheeky chappy – giving us a huge grin before throwing himself off. Once he’s cut free he dashes from the clearing, overwhelmed, but returns soon enough wearing his dirt with pride to join in the dancing and singing.
The jumps are getting higher now. With each one there’s a build up of tension – both in the jumper and the spectators. The heart-stopping moment as he plunges to the ground and then the laughter and cheers when he stands up unharmed.
Then we’re on to the last jump: right from the top of the swaying tower. Before the jump the chief and our guide say a few words. The jumper stands on his platform taking in the views around him. He seems almost in a trance, looking to the sky then looking to the crowds to carry him through this. He gathers his courage with a few handclaps and leaps.
And then it’s over. There are smiles all round as everyone relaxes. It’s been magical and I’m exhausted just from watching.
But it’s not even lunchtime yet and we’ve got a lot of excitement yet to come. We make our way back to the airport, stopping to greet and thank the people along the way.
Alex is waiting to take us on our next scenic flight: a 30 minute hop to Epi Island where we’re due to have lunch. Once again the flight is smooth and we fly past another spectacular volcano. We come in to land on a grass landing strip at the top of a beautiful bay. This airport is even smaller than the last one.
We’re running a bit late, so the boat that was meant to take us over to our lunch spot isn’t there. Not to worry, it’s only a few minutes walk along the beautiful beach.
The ladies at sunset bungalows have prepared a lovely lunch for us: rice, chicken, highland cabbage (basically spinach) and yam fritters. They’ve even managed a gorgeous lemon meringue for desert.
Once we’ve stuffed our faces we head back down to the beach to pick up the boat that’s going to take us over to Lamen Island in the middle of the bay. There’s meant to be a resident dugong here and we’re hoping to snorkel with it. The boat is a rather rickety, wooden affair. Our skipper is steering with one hand and bailing out water with the other. You can’t help but laugh.
The water is rough and it’s quite a bounce to get out to the island. We anchor up and jump in. Despite being choppy the water is warm and visibility is still pretty good. We spend a good 45 minutes snorkelling around the bay but unfortunately the dugong is not to be found.
We haul ourselves back onto the boat (some of us with a little more difficulty than others, ahem). Our skipper is nowhere to be seen, so we hang out for a bit. The shadow of a flying fox passes overhead, and then suddenly there are more. I’m not sure what’s roused them at this time of day, but they’re striking silhouetted against the sky. Finally our skipper turns up. He hasn’t found the dugong either. We’re due back at the airport so our guide boats us straight over there. It’s not a bad way to arrive for a flight.
The rainclouds are pulling in fast and tight, but once again Alex manages to find a relatively bump-free route through them. And once again there’s jaw-dropping scenery along the way: waterfalls appearing out of nowhere, 360 degree rainbows, shallow bays and long beaches.
We land safely and then it’s a quick drive back to the hotel.
Janet adds: tired but happy, it’s been the best day ever.
Nick adds: This was the reason for coming to Vanuatu and worth the effort in getting here.
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