Bozeman to Clareholm

27 May – 31 May

Friday:

We’re heading north today and I’m expecting it to get even colder and snowier, but we’re also dropping in altitude so instead it’s getting warmer.  We’re driving along the banks of the swollen Gallatin River in beautiful Big Sky country. 

We stop for some sandwiches at the Hungry Moose in the town of Big Sky which is overlooked by Lone Peak.  Snow-capped mountains always make a good backdrop whilst having your lunch. 

We’re told that moose had been spotted that morning on the town golf course (good grazing) so we detour round there but if they’re still about they’re hiding well. 

We continue on to Bozeman.  It’s not much more than one main street with a few bars, restaurants and western gear shops, but it’s instantly likeable.  We spend a couple of hours window-shopping and then get checked into our motel.  In the evening we get delicious pizzas and even more delicious beer at the MacKenzie River Pizza Company.  I fall in love with out waitress Mikala, who chats away as if we’ve been best friends for years – it seems the people of Montana are just like that. 

Janet adds: must resist urges to buy ridiculous cowgirl gear…

Saturday:

We’re driving northwest through Montana and for most of the drive we seem to be ringed in by mountains.  We detour into Helena for a quick look around.  The only thing I really noticed about Helena was a distinct lack of public toilets.  The rest passed me by in a haze of watering eyes and clenched knees.  Er, it did have quite an attractive historic town centre and there was a famers market going on.  

Continuing up the road we get to Missoula where we’re spending the night.  We have high hopes for it, but it lacks the charm of Bozeman and is a little rough around the edges.  After a wander round the streets and along the river we don’t find anywhere that catches our fancy enough to keep us out and so call it a day.

Sunday:

We’ve got a fun drive ahead of us today.  First detour is the National Bison Reserve.  I am of course imagining millions of bison roaming in enormous herds surrounding our car.  The reality is a bit less dramatic but still well worth the trip.  We take the loop drive that climbs Red Sleep Mountain for some fantastic views.  It’s quite warm today and the wildflowers are in bloom, so it feels like spring. 

Dropping back down the mountain we enter the ‘prairie’ section of the reserve.  This is where all the bison are hanging out.

Satisfied, we move on.  The next stretch of our drive takes us along the shoreline of Flathead Lake – the largest natural lake in western USA.  We’re driving through blossoming cherry orchards, with the lake on one side of us and mountains on the other. 

We drive straight to Glacier National Park.  We’ve not got time to explore today, but we’ve come to find out what we will and won’t be able to do.  We already know that the Going to the Sun Road, which goes east/west across the park, is still snowbound in the middle (boo!), but we’re relived to find that there is still plenty to do and a helpful ranger recommends some hikes which are relatively snow-free.  With a plan sorted for tomorrow we head for the town of Whitefish, which we’ll be using as our base.

Janet adds: I think Montana might be contagious.

Monday:

We start the morning with a quick look at Whitefish Lake.  It’s nowhere near as big as Flathead, but it is pretty. 

Then we head back to Glacier National Park to tackle some trails.  First up is the stiff 6-mile round trip climb to Apgar lookout.  The trail starts off gently through woodland and it’s warmed up enough to be in t-shirts.  We’re warned that we’re now in grizzly country.  Rule number 1 is to make a lot of noise.  Grizzlies don’t like surprises so you don’t want to sneak up on one.  We talk, clap and stomp.  Although we don’t see any bears this time, tracks warn that they’re around. 

Once we’re eased in the trail climbs steadily, giving us beautiful views of the valley below.  About two thirds of the way up we start getting patchy snow, but not enough to get our feet wet.  At the top of the mountain we pop over the other side for our first glorious view of Lake McDonald. 

After catching our breath and drinking in the scenery we head back done.  Again, no bears, but other hikers on the trail have spotted one.   Back at the car we eat our sandwiches (we’re avoiding hiking with food while there are hungry bears about!). 

About 16 miles of the Going to the Sun road is open at this end, so we drive as far as we can get.  At the end of the road is the start of our second walk.  This one winds through cedar forest surrounded by mountains dripping with waterfalls.  The path is deliciously muddy and we get to do fun things like balance on logs.  After 2 miles we arrive at Avalanche Lake.  It’s named for the mountains behind it, which are known for dumping their snow.  We get lucky: while we’re there we get to witness two mini-avalanches.  Just as we’re leaving we hear a rumble like distant thunder and dash back just in time to see a bigger avalanche. 

With the excitement over we make our way back to the car and start the drive back. We’re in huckleberry country and signs are offering huckleberry flavoured everything.  After all the walking we’ve done I reckon we’ve earned a treat and I manage to persuade Nick to stop for ice-cream.  If only there was space for pie as well…

Janet adds: blissed out on beauty (and ice-cream).

Tuesday:

As we can’t take the Going to the Sun road to the east end of the park we’ve got to drive round the outside of the park.  We’re guessing this is the less scenic route but I’m constantly snapping pics through the windscreen.  Just when you thought Montana couldn’t get any more beautiful it ups the stakes and each bend in the road reveals more mountains, rivers, forest. 

We find another road in to Glacier and drive to Two Medicine Lake.  We take the brief walk to Running Eagle Falls – named after a female warrior.  There’s a lot of snow around but luckily is packed down pretty hard so we can slide along the top of it. 

Back out of the park we drive round to the next entrance.  This drive takes us along the banks of St Mary’s Lake.  The water is so calm that it gives a perfect mirror image of the mountains and clouds. 

On the hills behind the road some bighorn sheep have gathered to admire the view as well. 

Once we’ve managed to tear ourselves away we drive on a bit to the start of a hike.  Again we’re in bear country, but I’ve picked up a tip from some other hikers and carry two stones which I clack together as we walk.  The sound carries well and it stops us having to keep shouting and clapping.  We pass a waterfall and keep walking till we reach the lake.  Then we follow the banks of the lake through forest and small green meadows.  The trail takes us to two more waterfalls with clear blue-green water.  It looks very inviting, but is icy cold.  The trail doubles back on itself so we get to see it all again, which is no hardship. 

Back in the car we’ve got to get going: we’ve booked a room over the border in Canada.  We’d been planning to drive west across the top of the US but decided to be intrepid and travel through Canada instead.  We’re leaving the mountains behind and entering flat grasslands.  By the time we get to Canada the scenery is positively dull.  We negotiate the border crossing with little hassle and make the drive to Claresholm (aka dullsville) where we’re spending the night. 

Janet adds: we were warned that we were entering tick season, but thought nothing of it until a tick pounced on me and managed to sneak its way inside my fleece.  Luckily I found it before it became too attached (literally).  Yurck.