Saturday, 18 May 2013

Hawai'i (Big Island)


Saturday 11 May

We’re up bright and early to get our flight over to Kona this morning.  The flight is 5 and a bit hours, but Hawai’i is 3 hours behind, so it’s still mid-morning when we land.  We’re greeted by a blast of tropical heat – aahhh, even sunny California was a bit too chilly for my liking.  Kona has a fantastic, laidback, open-air airport.  We pick up a car and set off driving across the island.  The landscape changes rapidly, from sunny but barren lava fields to rain to high altitude volcanic moonscapes.  As we start to descend into Hilo things turn sunny and wildly lush again.  The plants are so vivid, the grass so green that I keep thinking they must be fake.

We’re starving so we stop at a bakery for some lunch and have a stroll around downtown Hilo.  It’s a sleepy and slightly rundown town set in a beautiful bay lined with towering palm trees.  Our hotel is a weird one.  It’s set right on the waterfront on beautiful Banyan Drive, but from the outside it looks like the building might be on its last legs.  I’m nervous taking the lift up, but our room is big, bright and clean with views out onto the bay.



It doesn’t take us long to change into our swimmers and cross over the footbridge to tiny Mokuola island.  The island is a county park and is packed with families bbq-ing, picnicking and swimming.  We join the shrieking kids for a splash about and then dry out in the sun.



We’re not in the mood to be out tonight, so we grab some supplies for our room and head in for the evening.

Sunday 12

We wake up early to the soothing sound of tropical rain.  We’ve got plenty of time to relax into the day and by about 9am the rain has stopped anyway.  After breakfast, we drive north of Hilo a little way for a scenic and wildly overgrown route along the coast.



Coming back south we stop at a couple of beach-parks along the way.  It’s a Sunday (and mother’s day) so they’re all busy.  Although it’s nice and warm, it’s still a little overcast and so we’re putting off a swim.

Our next stop is the Lave Tree State Monument – this was a forest, until lava flowed in, burning out the trees and leaving black tree-moulds in their place.  It’s a good spot for a little walk around.



Back in the car we continue south – and here it gets a bit hazy.  We spend a good half hour or so trying to find places the guidebook mentions (but which don’t seem to exist).  Eventually we give up and head to Kapoho Tide Pools.  We’ve been here before, so we know they exist.  They’re a series of natural pools cut into the volcanic rock, perfect for snorkeling. 



Once we’ve had our lunch and a good snorkel it’s time to head over to Kalapana: we’ve booked a lava hike for tonight.

We’re loaded into a van and introduced to our guide, Primo.  A short drive takes us to our trailhead and the walking begins.  We’re hiking over lava fields.  It’s barren, but beautiful at the same time.  Primo keeps us occupied with tidbits of information and Hawaiian mythology.  In the distance we can see a big plume of smoke where lave is entering the ocean, and smaller plumes indicating the flow of the lava downhill.



In all honesty, we’re not expecting much from this hike – maybe a distant glow of orange on the horizon – but almost before we know it we’re watching lava drip into the ocean, with the sea broiling and exploding all around.  It’s mesmerizing, beautiful and humbling.



As if that weren’t enough, we’re then lead a short way up hill to see the surface flow.  Here, lava is making its slow, steady drip towards the sea. 



We’re able to stand right in front of it, watching it twist and flow and, yes, poke a stick in it.  This is a lifetime’s ambition for Nick and you can tell by his face that he’s in fire-prodding heaven.  The new, glowing lava is soft and infinitely prod-able, but within a few minutes it hardens – our guide reckons we could walk on it within 20 minutes.



Before we know it darkness has fallen and the stars are out in their full glory.  We have a final prod at the lava, then walk back to the cliff’s edge for another look at the ocean entry, before tackling the hike back to the parking lot.  It’s after 9pm when we get back to the car – exhausted but elated.  Another 40 minutes’ drive gets us back to Hilo for a quick beer and a snack before bed.

Monday 13

After our late night last night we’re quite happy to take things a little slow and easy this morning.  On the plus side, we’re awakened by bright sunshine and birdsong.  It’s another beautiful day in paradise.

We take our time checking out, then waste a bit more time at the local sports shop– I didn’t bring any running shoes with me and thought I wouldn’t need them, but the American portions are proving me wrong.

We’re driving over to Kona today, but take the scenic route around the south coast.  Our first stop is Punalu’u beach – a black sand beach dotted with resting turtles.  It’s a lovely spot to relax and enjoy our lunch, but the water is looking a little rough for a swim.



Next up we decide to hike to green sand beach.  It’s a 2.5 mile hike along the windswept south coast.  It’s nice enough, but the beach, when we get to it, is definitely on the olivey-brown side of green and not overly impressive.



The day is getting away with us and we’ve still got some driving to do, so we crack on and get up to Kona.  We’re staying in a not particularly fancy hotel in the town centre and are pleasantly surprised to find that we have a balcony and sea views.  Once we’re settled in we walk over to the Kona Brewing Company where we fill up on tasty local beers and then can’t quite manage our pizzas.

Tuesday 14

I’m up early this morning to take my new shoes for a run.  They hold up fine, but I’m a sweating, steaming mess within 20 minutes.  We have a cup of tea and some cereal on our balcony and then get packed up for the beach.

We drive south to Pu’uhonua o Honaunau, an ancient Hawaiian sacred site (http://www.nps.gov/puho/planyourvisit/the-puuhonua.htm ).  A short walking tour gives us a bit of insight into this place of refuge. 



As an added bonus, there is excellent snorkeling just across the way.  There’s a lava rock shelf here that drops snorkelers into 10ft water rich with coral and multi-coloured fish.  We tire ourselves out swimming out, across the bay and back again.  I remind myself, halfway across the deep bay, that this is the same ‘shark infested’ bay that Hawaiians used to swim across to reach their refuge at the pu’uhonua and swim a little faster.

It’s cloudy again today, so we skip the sunbathing and head a little further down the coast to Ho’okena beach – a lovely little black sand crescent.   There are turtles playing in the shallows, so we grab our snorkels and head in to join them.  Before to long we find this fella, getting a good old clean from his crew of fish.  We hang with him for a while and then head back to the beach.



We’re starving and there’s no food around here, so we head back to our hotel and take a wander into town.  It doesn’t take long to find some hunger-busting Mexican food.

We’ve booked a night snorkel tonight so at 6pm we set off to meet our tour.  The aim is to see manta rays.  Way back in the ‘70s the Sheraton hotel put some powerful lights up to illuminate the oceanfront rooms.  This had the inadvertent effect of attracting plankton, which in turn attracted manta rays.  Now, it’s one of the best places to dive (or snorkel) with mantas.  Still, we’re not overly optimistic.  Neither of us has ever snorkeled at night and there’s no guarantee that the mantas will show.

The boat moors right outside the hotel, so we’re barely offshore.  We get kitted up, jump in and then grab on to rafts so that we’re just floating on the surface.  The water is shallower than I’d expected and all the dive lights keep it well lit.

Before we know it a manta has turned up.  It spins and twirls beneath us before disappearing into the darkness.  We’re ecstatic – and then another one turns up.  This one is right up close to the divers and puts on quite a show.

Already it’s exceeded our expectations and we bask in a happy glow.  Until the next one shows up.  This guy is huge and he’s loving the plankton that has gathered in the torch light right in front of us.  He swirls up, cartwheeling with mouth agape.  And again, a little closer this time.  Then closer still until we’re sure his wings are going to brush against our bodies.  Then he’s gone.



It’s time to get ourselves back on the boat, dry off and warm up with a hot chocolate.  Before we know it we’re back at our hotel enjoying a beer and looking back over our pictures.

Janet adds: Thanks Big Island, you sure know how to show a gal a good time.

Nick adds: Prodded lava with a stick, nothing more to say.

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