Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Easter Island (Rapa Nui)


Tuesday 11 June

We’ve got used to the more budget (i.e. American) airlines and suddenly LAN is like high luxury.  The seats are nicely spaced out (and the plane is only about half full, which helps), there are proper on-demand inflight entertainment systems and a full meal service with free booze.  We can’t really appreciate any of it though as it’s 3 in the morning and all we want to do is sleep.  It takes about 5 hours to fly over to Easter Island, but there’s a 4 hour time difference so it’s about 11am when we land.  The hotel have sent someone to pick us up, so we’re met at the airport and driven back to the hotel to check-in.  Accommodation isn’t cheap here and for the price we’re paying we’d like something flashier, but the room is big and clean.  We have beautiful views down the coast and there, in the distance, is our first glimpse of a line of moai. 

We dump our stuff, get showered and walk out to explore.  Although it’s winter here and nowhere near the balmy tropical-ness of Tahiti or Hawai’i, it’s still just about warm enough for shorts and t-shirts.

Easter Island isn’t a big place and Hanga Roa is it’s only town.  We take a stroll down the main street, which is lined with cafes, mini-markets and souvenir shops.  It’s also full of very friendly, well-mannered dogs.  They don’t seem to actually belong to anyone, but they don’t seem like strays either – possibly communal dogs?

We stop at a café for delicious sandwiches and then continue walking.

Large chunks of the island (and all the bits we want to see) are part of the national park.  You need a ticket, but the tickets are only sold in two places: at the airport, before you go through immigration (but you have to pay for them in cash, without access to an ATM…) or at the office on the far side of the airport.  We spend the better part of an hour getting lost trying to find the place, but in the end we stumble across it and get our tickets.  We walk back into town along the coast and come across our first head up close.  It’s crazy and beautiful, dark and imposing – pretty much exactly how they look in the pictures. 



As we walk along we come across more heads and other archeological remains before reaching the row of moai we could see from our hotel (Ahu Vai Uri). 



This is meant to be one of the best spots to watch the sunset as the sun sinks directly behind them.  As it’s a clear evening and the sun will be going down within the hour, we make ourselves comfy and settle in to watch.



Janet adds: the somewhat magical atmosphere was only slightly ruined by the rather loud dog shagging that was going on around us courtesy of the slightly less well-mannered dogs.

Wednesday 12 June

We’d planned to have a bit of a lazy day today, making plans and getting some washing done.  However, it’s a bright day and the sun is shining.  It’s threatening to rain for the rest of the week so we decide to take advantage of the good weather and head out for a hike instead.  We quickly get geared up, pack up some sandwiches and set off.

There’s a 17km hike that heads up along the coast before turning inland and looping back round to Hanga Roa, taking in some great sights along the way.  We walk to where we watched the sunset and then head away from town.  The scenery is spectacular, with herds of wild horses grazing against a backdrop of the sea.



Our first stop is to check out some sea caves.  A narrow, re-enforced hole in the ground is the only indication that there’s something here.  We bravely switch on the torch and crawl in.  After making our way through a tunnel we come out into a room with two entranceways to the sea – both well above sea level in the cliffs. 



I think there are some rock paintings in here, but if there are, our torch (or our eyes) isn’t good enough to pick them out.

It’s at about this time that we pick up our dog-guide: one of the many dogs that roam around has decided to join us for the walk.  She strides out confidently in front and turns us off the path to point out the unmarked sights that we may not have found by ourselves.



I know, it sounds ridiculous and I thought Nick was having a laugh when he first voiced it – but she clearly knows the way.  She leads Nick to a cave dwelling, then takes us both to some toppled moai, another cave dwelling complete with subterranean garden before delivering us to Ahu Akivi – one of the resorted lines of moai.



Here she poses politely for pictures and guards our bags before she spots someone more interesting to hang out with and disappears.



The sights thin out a bit from here and we try to pick up our pace a bit.  There’s just one more stop on the long walk back: Puna Pau - this is a quarry where they used to carve out the top-knots that can be seen on some moai.  There are also some great views back over Hanga Roa.



With tired legs we make our way back to our hotel.  We get cleaned up and walk to an ocean front bar for a glass of wine and the sunset.  Finding food is a little harder – this is a fish, fish and more fish kind of place – but we do find a small café with simple pizzas and pastas.

Janet adds: Nick’s theory is that the dogs are reincarnated ancestral spirits.  Hippie.

Thursday 13 June

It’s a good thing we went out walking yesterday because it is raining today.  Serious, all day, pouring down rain.  We have various good intentions and false starts, but in the end it turns into a bit of a lazy day.  We use the time to make some plans for the rest of our time here.  It’s not a big island and you could probably rush round it, taking in the main sights in a few days.  We have a week though (considering how hard it is to get here, we thought we may as well spend a bit of time here) and can afford to take things a little slower.  We’d planned to book onto a few tours to see the far-flung sights, but we’ve been enjoying exploring on our own.  The incessant rain is indicating that we need wheels.  We walk to one of the car hire places along the main street.  We’re only planning to get one for a couple of days, but the price decreases drastically the longer you have it and it makes sense to simply get the car for the rest of our stay.  With our own wheels we can go wherever we want in the gaps in the weather.

Friday 14 June

Despite the rain it still hasn’t been particularly cold here.  You can tell it is winter though as the sun doesn’t come up until 8am, making getting out of bed at a reasonable hour a bit of an effort.  Still, we’re excited to take our car for a spin so we pack a bag and get going.

There’s a sealed road that goes up one side of the island and then cuts back to town through the middle.  The top bit (I’m no good at directions) is inaccessible except on foot or horseback.  We’re still getting the odd rain shower, but at least the sun is making an appearance now and then.  The drive is lovely, taking in sweeping views of the coast. 



We head straight to the top of the road (which is only about a 20 minute drive) to Ahu Tongariki:  a line of resorted moai in a beautiful setting. 



We snap our pictures while the sun is out and then continue on.  A rough dirt road connects this road to the other sealed road and Nick loves bouncing through the muddy puddles.  There are petroglyphs and fallen moai to look at along the way, before we arrive at Anakena beach.  It’s a beautiful, palm-lined crescent of white sand lapped by turquoise water that looks a little out of place on this wild island. 



Ah, and of course it comes with it’s own row of moai, complete with top-knots (Ahu Nau Nau). 



It’s a lovely spot to stop for lunch (and we might even have considered a swim if we’d though to pack our swimmers).

We had planned to do a bit of hiking this afternoon, but the weather is looking a little iffy, the trails aren’t marked and we don’t have a decent map, so we give it up as a bad idea.

Back in town the sun is out so we dump the car and walk down to the museum,



which nicely fills in the gaps and explains a bit more about what we’ve been seeing.

Unfortunately we still haven’t learnt out lesson with the weather – we’ve wandered out without our waterproofs and of course, just as we’re about to leave, the heavens open.  We sit out the worst of the rain and then resign ourselves to getting wet on the walk back.

We’d planned to eat in our room tonight, but our provisions have frozen in our little fridge overnight.  We have a beer or two whilst checking the internet and then walk to one of the nicer restaurants in town (one of the few with a tiny veggie section on the menu) for delicious food and my first (and certainly not last) pisco sour.

Saturday 15 June

We’re out of clean clothes and we’ve had to drop off a bundle at the laundry in town.  It won’t be ready until noon, but we take advantage of the bright (ish) morning to nose through the souvenir shops and craft markets in town.  Once the washing is ready, we pack up a lunch and head out in our car to find a nice picnic spot on the coast.



One of the national park’s major sights is Rano Raraku – the quarry on a volcanic crater where the moai were carved. 



You’re only allowed to visit once on your ticket, so we’ve decided to give ourselves the afternoon here.  It’s quite an eerie place, with heads sticking out of the ground all around. 



These are, for the most part, fully carved moai, but over the years the earth has filled in around them leaving on the tops exposed.  There are also some half-carved figures still embedded in the rocks. 



There are a couple of hundred moai here that, for one reason or another, didn’t get finished or reach their final destination.

Once we’ve seen enough we climb up the hill for views down into the crater.
We’d planned to take a slow drive back to town stopping off at sights along the way.  We do stop off once or twice, but as we’re taking in some toppled moai and the impossibly blue waves behind them, we’re caught in a fierce rain shower.  We’re soaked in the short dash back to the car.  We pack it in for the day and drive back to get clean and dry.

Janet adds: managed a short run this afternoon for the first time in ages.  And yes, I did get caught in the rain…

Sunday 16 June

Ahu Tongariki is meant to be beautiful at sunrise.  We haven’t bothered so far as the weather has been so bad, but we’re running short of mornings.  We set the alarm and get ourselves on the road by about 7.  The sky is just starting to brighten as we arrive.  It is wonderfully atmospheric with the towering row of looming moai backed by an increasingly orange and pink sky. 



Unfortunately half the tourists on the island seem to be out here too, but that’s still relatively few people and just means we have to get creative with our picture angles to cut the people out.

Once it’s light we drive back to the hotel for breakfast.  The weather has turned nasty again and soon it’s howling with wind and belting it down.  We take refuge in the lobby for a couple of hours hoping for a break in the weather, which doesn’t come.

Once a power cut throws us off the internet we decide to venture out for some lunch. 

We haven’t yet visited the other big site of the national park: Orongo ceremonial village.  It’s only 4km from town and we’d hoped to hike to it.  It doesn’t look like that’s going to happen so we give up and drive.  The village is precariously perched on a thin ridge of land between volcano and sea.  It’s a wild, fierce place with howling winds.  The deep crater of Rano Kau looms behind the village



and steep cliffs fall away to the front.  It consists of a series of low, round terraced stone houses that have been carefully restored.  This village was the ceremonial centre of the birdman cult: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tangata_manu



Only one moai was found here and that moai is now on display at the British Museum – something of a sore point as the moai is referred to as the ‘stolen friend’.

We make our exit as the rain pulls in again.  On the road down we offer a lift to a half-drowned French woman who risked the climb on foot.  We drop her off in town and take a short drive along the coast before calling it a day.

Monday 17 June

We were hoping for one last sunny day where we could stretch our legs, but it is not to be.  It rained all night and is still raining this morning.  Luckily we’ve pretty much seen everything we wanted to see so it’s not too much of a problem, but it is getting tiresome. We’re checking out today but luckily we’ve still got our car to seek shelter in.  We take a lazy drive up the coast for the views and to kill a bit of time.  We also have another potter around town and stick our heads into the Catholic Church. 



Local artists did all the artwork and it’s the strangest mix of Catholic and pagan imagery.  Statues of Jesus and the Virgin Mary come adorned with carvings of the birdman and the creator god Makemake.

We get a brief break in the rain just after lunch and use it to explore a nearby sea cave that is adorned with rock paintings.



The rain starts up again and it’s back to the car.  We take one last spin around the island, taking in the sights.  We’re sitting at Anakena beach when the opportunity to play good Samaritan arises again: a Chilean couple have got their rental car stuck and there’s no phone signal out here.  We’re about to head back anyway so we give them a lift back to town.

We drop off the car, tidy ourselves up and walk into town for a drink and a light dinner.  Our flight is at 22.45 and we spend the rest of the evening at the airport.  Our new favourite airline LAN is just as good this time, delivering us safely to Tahiti.  It’s 1am Tahiti time (and 5am Easter Island time) so we grab our bags and stumble across the parking lot to the Tahiti Airport Motel.

Janet adds: the only downside to the car was not getting dog guides.

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