East London to Somerset West

18 October – 25 October

Monday:

East London is a good place to hole up and rest – there’s nothing to do here.  As the day goes on we keep discovering more tender spots and the stiffness sets in. We were on our way to Cinsta when we crashed, but we’ve decided not to head back that way.  Instead, we’ve booked 2 nights in a cottage on a farm with access to the beach just outside Kenton-on-Sea.  We’re heading there tomorrow. 

Tuesday:

I’m in heaven, and it’s called Kasouga.  We’ve got the most gorgeous 2 bed self-catering cottage on a 1500 ha  farm (cattle + game) with 5km of beach frontage.  

We have everything we could possibly need: there’s a beautiful, wide beach with no one on it but us, dunes + sandboards, river + canoe.  Oh, and an adoring dog for Nick.  Our wonderful hostess Jenny even took us out for a game drive and sundowners on the beach, then offered to do our laundry for us.  All for the same price as we’d be paying at a grotty backpackers.  It’s exactly what we need right now and we’ve already decided to stay an extra night.  Jenny has grown up in this area and knows all the old farm families from the Somerset East area where I spent my teenage years. 

This morning I hated South Africa.  We woke up still stiff and sore.  The pill-poppers that we are, we’ve managed a grand 3 ibuprofen between us.  As we headed off, I thought it best that I do a bit of driving so that it didn’t become a big deal.  We found a nice, wide, quiet stretch of road.  I was doing quite well and even enjoying it.  We pulled off briefly at Kidd’s Beach, where my mother’s parents used to have a caravan park when she was a teenager.   Then I got pulled for speeding.  I know this makes me look like a speed-freak, irresponsible driver.  In truth, I was being over-cautious.  I was keeping to the speed limit, until I was about to be sandwiched between a minibus taxi that had decided to stop on the shoulder and a massive truck.  I panicked slightly and thought the best thing to do would be to speed up and get passed the taxi.  Safely done, I slowed right down again, but got pulled anyway. 

Straight away it was clear that the cop had targeted us as tourists and wasn’t particularly interested in what the situation was.  I had quite simply had enough, and, in my most proud moment, broke down in tears, leaving it to Nick to explain what had happened and why I was upset.  It turns out that my tears got us a ‘special discounted fine’ that somehow didn’t involve us filling in any kind of paperwork whatsoever and seemed to disappear straight into his pocket.  Feeling cynical, with confidence freshly knocked and still bawling my eyes out I let Nick drive us the rest of the way. 

Janet adds: www.oribihaven.co.za - my most favourite place so far.  You’ll get so well looked after for a ridiculously reasonable price.

Nick adds: proud of Janet driving today so soon after such a big crash.

Wednesday:

Today was gorgeous.  We had a slow, lazy start then headed to the beach.  

We had the 5 km of beach entirely to ourselves and after a good bake, went for an icy but fun swim.  We took the canoe for a paddle.  Not too bad with the wind at our backs, but trying to come back into the wind was a bit of a disaster.  Never mind.  Fire time in the evening, and Nick’s new best mate grabbed the best (and warmest) seat.

Janet adds:  The physical signs are wearing off, but nightmares kept me up last night.

Nick adds: can’t understand how when Janet was paddling we went backwards.

Thursday:

Another bright and sunny day, perfect for hanging out on the beach, messing about with the paddle ski 

and checking out the local wildlife.

Janet adds: Tomorrow we’re off again.  Please, South Africa, do me proud for the last little bit.

Friday:

It’s overcast and a bit rainy this morning, so it feels like a good day to be moving on.  We drive down the coast to Storms River mouth.  The coast is wild here, backing onto tangled forest and cliffs.  We do a hike along the coast to a waterfall.  

Afterwards we walk to the river mouth to see the suspension bridge.

We spend the night in Plettenberg bay.  We’re not expecting much, but the town seems really nice and we’re told that it’s safe to walk around, even at night (a first so far). 

Saturday:

We leave Plett early and head towards Knysna.  We stop on the way in to do a forest walk at Diepwalle Forest.  The walk is beautiful, but our legs are feeling the strain of yesterday. 

After a picnic lunch we carry on to Knysna itself.  The town is pretty enough, but over-developed.  We check into a backpackers and our doubts are confirmed: we’re told not only should we not leave anything in the car overnight, we also have to empty out the boot, take the cover off and leave the seats folded forward to show there is NOTHING in the car.  We’re advised against walking anywhere (the guy that works here was mugged at knife point last week).  After getting settled we take a drive out, but our impression doesn’t improve much.

Janet adds: Ostriches await tomorrow.

Sunday:

Rainy and overcast again today.   Having escaped the clutches of the needy backpackers host, we take a short but spectacular drive inland to Oudtshoorn.   We pull into an ostrich farm and straight onto a tour.  One of the ostriches takes a particular shine to Nick (or his shirt!).  We’re allowed to sit on them, but due to the rain there’s no riding or racing L

We had planned to stay overnight, but as it’s not even lunchtime yet (and Nick isn’t too keen on Cango caves), we decide to head on.  We take the scenic R62 – passing through the Little Karoo and dramatic mountain passes.   We’re heading for Cape Agulhas, the southern most point of Africa. We stay at Struisbaai, 6km away.  We take a short walk to the harbour and along the beach boardwalk to a little pizza/pasta place overlooking the bay.  You couldn’t ask for better views and the food is amazing too.  A lot of red wine, beer and pizza later, we head back for a cup of tea by the fire before bed.

Janet adds: a bloody guinea fowl flew out in front of us today and broke the front plastic grill.  As if the excess on the totalled car wasn’t enough, we’ll now have to cough up for this too L

Nick adds: Bernie Clifton impressions don’t get any better than that!

Monday:

At Cape Agulhas this morning we climb the lighthouse and pose where the two oceans meet.  

Then we head off through the backroads past Pearly Beach (another childhood holiday destination).  We take the coast road into Somerset West, stopping at Hermanus to check out some whales.  Safe and sound in Somerset West we can catch up with family and relax.